PSU Spring Break in Rome 2023

Pack your bags because WE ARE going to Italy for Spring Break! That’s right, students who make plans to attend are going to have an opportunity to BE GREATER IN ROME! Note that everyone who travels must be registered for the IT130 Italian Culture course taught by Dr. John G. Champagne (Behrend) and me, Dr. Sandra L. Trappen (Greater Allegheny), during Spring semester 2023.

Rome is the capital city of Italy. It is also the capital of the Lazio region, the center of the Metropolitan City of Rome, and a special comune named Comune di Roma Capitale. Join us as we plan to hit up most all of the major attractions plus a few off the beaten path destinations.

The city of Rome is a veritable open air museum. You can’t walk anywhere in this great city without coming face to face with thousands of years of art, culture and history! The best part about this trip is: 1) You are in ROME!!!! and; 2) You will have structured daily activities, but you will also have flex time. That is, unstructured free time for you to indulge your whims and explore this wonderful city at your own pace.

Your apartments this year (which you will share with at least 2 other students) are located near the Colosseum and the Monti neighborhood.

Please note that the activities represented on this post are extensive. And while you may not have time to see them all, we will do our best to help you prioritize as well as organize so you can see the things that you want to see.

We’ll share more details with you once you enroll in our pre-trip course (you must take the course to go on the trip). The course and trip focus mainly on art and culture. As part of the process, we’ll share additional information about trip logistics, passports, ground transportation, meals, how to manage money/credit cards, use your phone, and pack a suitcase, among other things.

Saint Peter’s Basilica

The Papal Basilica of Saint Peter in the Vatican (Basilica Papale di San Pietro in Vaticano), or simply Saint Peter’s Basilica (Latin: Basilica Sancti Petri), is a church built in the Renaissance style located in Vatican City, the papal enclave that is within the city of Rome.

Designed principally by Donato Bramante, Michelangelo, Carlo Maderno and Gian Lorenzo Bernini, St. Peter’s is the most renowned work of Renaissance architecture and the largest church in the world by interior measure.

While it is neither the mother church of the Catholic Church nor the cathedral of the Diocese of Rome (these titles are held by the Archbasilica of Saint John Lateran in Rome), St. Peter’s is regarded as one of the holiest Catholic shrines.

Catholic tradition holds that the basilica is the burial site of Saint Peter, chief among the apostles of Jesus and also the first Bishop (Pope) of Rome. The tomb of Saint Peter is supposedly directly below the high altar of the basilica. For this reason, many popes have been interred at St. Peter’s since the Early Christian period.

A church has stood on this site since the time of the Roman emperor Constantine the Great. The old St. Peters Basilica dates from the 4th century AD. Construction of the present basilica began on 18 April 1506 and was completed on 18 November 1626.

If you have enough time while visiting this spectacular basilica, take advantage of the opportunity to ascend upward to the Dome of the cathedral and visit the observation deck. This is one of the highest views you can get in Rome. Just in front of you lies the beautiful Piazza San Pietro with it’s towering obelisk and the boulevard-like Via delle Conciliazione. Unfortunately, security lines to access the basilica as well as the deck can be incredibly long. Plan to arrive early in the morning to avoid this.

Fees: a visit to the observation deck will cost you about $7.50, which requires you to climb 551 steps; if you pay a bit more ($10), you can take an elevator to a terrace that lets you shorten the climb just 320 steps.

Also worthy of note, remember the Basilica is still an active church that conducts daily Mass services. Given this, a strict dress code is enforced: No short skirts, yoga pants, hats, or bare shoulders.

Vatican Museum & Sistine Chapel

Inside the walled borders of Vatican City are the Vatican Museums. These museums are vast and contain huge collections of art and stunning antiquities, including the world-famous Sistine Chapel. They make up a significantly large part (but not all) of the Vatican buildings.

The fame of the Sistine Chapel is due mainly to its spectacular fresco decoration, especially to the barrel vault and wall behind the altar with The Last Judgment, two works by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512. The Sistine Chapel is currently also the seat of the papal conclave, the meeting room within which the College of Cardinals chooses a new pope. The works of art represented here amount to more than 5,000 square feet of painted area, according to ​​”Michelangelo, Life, Letters, and Poetry” published by the Oxford University Press in 1999. 

The Last Judgement & The Creation of Adam

Michelangelo painted the famous Sistine Chapel ceiling between 1508 and 1512. In order to prepare the wall to paint the fresco, Michelangelo had to destroy both his own work and that of fellow artist, Pietro Perugino. Two windows were filled in to create a surface 13.7 meters by 12.2 meters, for what was, at the time, the largest single fresco in the world. Later, in 1536, more than twenty years after he had finished painted the ceiling, he returned to work on the west wall. By this time, Michelangelo was sixty years old. Five years later “The Last Judgment” and “The Creation of Adam” – the iconic piece depicting God reaching his hand out to Adam was completed in 1535. It took five more years before the Last Judgement was unveiled to the public on October 31st, 1541.

The restoration of the Sistine Chapel, which was undertaken during the 1990s, revealed the incredible technical mastery of the artist, who had no assistants to help him complete the paintings (though he relied on some workers to help prepare the ceiling for painting). The large size of the painting figures and the difficulty of applying the paint to follow the ceiling curvature attest to the mastery involved in making this exceptional creation. High-quality reproductions of the painting are presently touring the United States. They’ll be displayed at eye level to give visitors the chance to see the paintings from a close-up vantage point, where they can admire every detail and brushstroke. 

Map of the Area

Visiting Hours and Tickets

Even though visiting St. Peter’s is free during high season (spring and summer months), the line for the Basilica can be quite long (30-45 minutes), as crowd access is limited and all visitors must pass through a security check point. We will be purchasing advance tickets in order to bypass the street line. If you return in the future, I would recommend booking a tour with a guide-operated service. They’ll purchase your tickets and help you get early (no crowds) access, which is a major bonus.

The Colosseum

No visit to Rome is complete without seeing its famous Colosseum. Located just a bit south and east of the Forum, the colosseum was the notorious site of many bloody gladiatorial fights. Opened in 80 A.D., the complex was able to accommodate around 50,000 spectators. Built on what is essentially an old marshland and with a circumference of 524 meters, experts point to it as an engineering wonder. Though to be sure, it’s a monument that commemorates animal and human rights atrocities.

The fact that it is a tourist “fan favorite” means that the Colosseum is also a bit of a tourist trap. As you may even be aware, it’s known for having a lot of hustlers and pickpockets that cluster around the outside. While I didn’t notice many during my last trip, they can be quite aggressive and may try to strike up a conversation with you. My best advice is to ignore them all. As soon as they realize you won’t engage, they will move on to someone else. We’ll be in a decent sized group, so that should help quite bit.

The Colosseum is open daily at 8:30 a.m. until varying times, which depend on the season. You can find located off the Colosseo metro stop. We will be purchasing tickets in advance and starting our day early here, where we plan to arrive first at the gate.

Alternatively, if you were traveling on your own, you might be tempted to take a guided tour. If you were ever to do that, plan on losing about 3-hours of your life….a bit long and a touch boring in my opinion. You might be better off simply going alone to have a look around.

Castle Sant’Angelo

Is it a tomb? A castle? A prison? It’s all three wrapped up into one cool place to visit! Castel Sant’Angelo (formerly the Adrian Emperor Mausoleum) is one of the most famous Roman landmarks. Following his death in 138 AD, Hadrian’s ashes were placed here, along with those of his wife and his son . The remains of succeeding emperors were interred here ending with the Roman Emperor Caracalla in 217 AD. It was during the 5th century that Emperor Aurelian converted Adrian’s mausoleum into a fortress, to defend Rome from barbarian invasions.

This incredibly beautiful and impressive structure represents more than 1,800 years of Roman history. You can’t miss it if you walk along the banks of the Tiber river. Likewise, you can’t help but notice it when you exit St. Peter’s Cathedral. Noteworthy is how it has changed over the years. At one time it was a mausoleum, then a fortress, and now it’s a museum. The museum currently houses a collection of paintings, sculpture, military memorabilia and medieval firearms.

In addition to its fascinating history, some of the best views of Rome are to be found on its rooftop terrace. If you happen to be finishing up a tour of St Peter’s Basilica, simply cross over the scenic Ponte degli Angeli (bridge of angels) to visit one of Rome’s oldest and most fascinating monuments. Given all of this, the castle remains a symbol of the ever-changing nature of the city of Rome.

Ponte Sant’Angelo (Ponte delgi Angeli)

Ponte Sant’Angelo is one of the finest surviving Roman bridges. Emperor Adrian  built it  to connect the Campo Marzio with his mausoleum. It dates from AD 135.

In the 16th century, Pope Clement VII installed the statues of Saints Peter and Paul at the end of the bridge. In 1688, the 10 angel statues, designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini, were mounted on the parapets. It was Bernini himself, who sculpted the figures of the Angel holding the crown of thorns and the Angel bearing the cartouche INRI (1668-71). When the Pope saw them, he was so taken by them, but he was concerned they were too beautiful to be exposed to the elements.

The two statues shown here were thus relocated to the Sant’Andrea delle Fratte church, where you can still see them today (note that Bernini’s assistants refurbished the two statues exhibited on Ponte S. Angelo instead of the originals).

Significance of the Angel

According to legend, it was in the year 590, during the terrible plague, that Pope Gregory I had a vision:  he saw an angel (Saint Michael) appear above the castle announcing the plague’s end. The arrival of Archangel Saint Michael, shown here sheathing his sword, was interpreted as a sign that the end of the plague was drawing near.

Visiting Hours and Tickets

Castel Sant’Angelo is open everyday from 9:00 AM to 7:30 PM. Note that there is a “Secret Castle” guided tour for groups of up to 15 people, where you can see the Passetto di Borgo, the Olearie, the historical prisons, and the Stufetta di Clemente VII. Hours are as follows:

• 10:00 AM – English
• 11:00 AM – Italian
• 4:00 PM – English
• 5:00 PM – Italian

Full ticket price to enter the castle is  14 € (7 € for special categories such as child and elderly visitors). Prices are subject to increase in case of exhibitions.

Villa Borghese: Gallery & Gardens

Villa Borghese is known not only for its galleries, but also for having the most famous landscaped garden in Rome. As Rome’s largest green space, it provides everything you could imagine wanting in a central park plus so much more. The villa and gardens cover an area of 80 hectares. They were built, beginning in 1606, by Cardinal Scipione Borghese, who was an avid art collector (he is know for having spent liberally from the Catholic Church’s treasury to indulge his art as well as personal interests). 

There are no less than 100 points of interest within the park! It’s huge! Attractions include a boating lake, a Shakespeare theater, a zoo, and a modern art museum, in addition to the gallery. You can find the villa and its gardens on the Pincian Hill (close to the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo). Take it from experience, the best way to cover this ground and enjoy it all is to take a scooter ride!

The Gallery Borghese is one of the most beautiful art museums in the world and features masterpieces by artists like Bernini, Caravaggio, Canova, and Raffaello.

You’ll be able to admire Caravaggio’s most important paintings, the most famous of which are two that are exhibited here: “Young sick Bacchus” and “Boy with a basket of fruit.” Bernini and Canova’s magnificent sculptures’ collection boasts works like “Apollo and Daphne,” “David.” “The Rape of Proserpina,” and “Paolina Bonaparte”. And, of course, not to be missed is Raffaello’s “Entombment of Christ.”

As you check out the Galleria Borghese, recall that at one time many of Caravaggio’s works were believed to have been in the possession of Cavalieri d’Arpino, for whom Caravaggio worked briefly. It is said that Cardinal Scipione Borghese wanted some of his paintings so bad that he invented charges to have d’Arpino thrown into prison! The price for getting out— the two famous paintings! Caravaggio also gave the Saint Jerome painting to Scipione after he helped him get out of trouble with the law (Caravaggio had apparently gotten into a fight with a lawyer who wanted to marry the woman who modeled as Mary in another one of his paintings – the Madonna dei Palafrenieri).

Tours and Tickets

Tickets must be purchased in advance to visit the Galleries. We will purchase you tickets in advance. Arriving early and on time is key to enjoying a day here, as we have to be mindful of the protocols used to manage large groups.

The gardens are open from dawn until dusk (free) and should not be missed!

Address: Piazzale Napoleone I, 00197 Roma RM, Italy

Palazzo del Quirinale

The Quirinale Palace in Rome is one of the world’s most renowned heritage sites. Once home to popes it has been the official residence of the President of the Italian Republic since 1946.

The sprawling complex is located on the Quirinal Hill (the highest of the seven hills of Rome) in an area colloquially called Monte Cavallo. Note: the palace complex is not too far from the Monti neighborhood and the Trevi Fountain.

Follow this link for a 3-D virtual tour of the building:

https://artsandculture.google.com/story/welcome-to-the-quirinal-palace-palazzo-del-quirinale/BwVhS6ThVhDTCQ?hl=en

Villa Doria Pamphili

Villa Doria Pamphili is a seventeenth-century villa that is today the largest landscaped public park in Rome. Many Romans cite it as their favorite place to escape the city; it’s a gorgeous refuge from all the city noise, hustle, and bustle, though I must admit that it takes a bit of doing to get up here.

Once a private estate, it was laid out around 1650 for Prince Camillo Pamphilj, nephew of Pope Innocent X. The huge expanse of rolling parkland is beautifully shaded by Rome’s distinctive umbrella pines. The Italian styled villa overlooks a formal garden filled with Mediterranean flora, including Punica, Citrus, Myrtus, and assorted bulbs. The park, which is city-owned, is also a popular jogging spot. While this park may not be as famous as the Villa Borghese park, it is still not to be missed.

Location: the Villa Doria and gardens are located in the quarter of Monteverde, on the Gianicolo hill, just outside the Porta San Pancrazio and the ancient walls of Rome, where the ancient road of the Via Aurelia commences (walk up the hill from Trastevere). You may stroll the grounds for free (sadly, the villa is only for private events).

Capitoline Museum

Housing what has to be one of the most impressive collections of Roman antiquities, you’ll find the Capitoline museum complex perched on the highest of Rome’s seven hills. It is, in my humble opinion, one of the best museums in Rome.

The museum, opened to the public in 1734, occupies the palaces that frame the Piazza del Campidoglio, a historic square designed by Michelangelo in the 16th century (the plans for the square were not fully realized until after his death). The collection is housed mainly in the Palazzo Nuovo and the Palazzo dei Conservatori, which face one another across the square. Well-known Roman works, such as the bronze she-wolf suckling Romulus and Remus (the legendary founders of Rome) can be found here. Also not to be missed are the Capitoline Venus and the Dying Gaul.

To help you estimate how long you’ll need to spend in the museum, I would advise you set aside about two hours if this is you first time…and even that’s a bit fast.

While you’re here, don’t forget to check out the famous Marforio statue, the “Colossus.” It’s one of the six “talking statues” of Rome, along with the Pasquino, Abbot Luigi, Babuino, Madama Lucrezia, and the so-called Facchino. The sculptures became known for reasons that people sometimes used them to post anonymous satiric verses (“pasquinate”) addressed to important people to express discontent towards the ruling classes.

This particular statue, known since the 12th century, has always been shrouded in debate and conjecture. Some people have interpreted it to be the personification of the Tiber, then as Mars, and even as the image of the Nile and Rhine rivers. The origin of the name “Marforio” is also open for interpretation, as it is perhaps a contraction of Martis forum; another possibility is that the name derives from a defaced Latin inscription once carved on the granite fountain basin, which was found in San Pietro in Carcere in 1588 (Mare in foro or Mart. in foro).

More sculptures can be found in the Palazzo Nuovo ( the building across the piazza with its back side facing the Victor Emmanuel Monument).

Oh, and last but not least, check out this view over the Roman Forum, which you can see from the Tabularium in the museum complex.

Honestly, try to carve out some time to visit the museum. Just do it. But if you are pressed for time (or simply too tired to tour another museum), then check out the views from the “secret” free terrace that is outside the coffee shop – more gorgeous views over the city of Rome. Officially known as “Terrazzo Caffarelli,” the vibe is laid back and access is free. Simply ask a museum guard to point you in the right direction to take you to the elevator.

Hours & Tickets

The Capitoline Museum is open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. You can find it just north of the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. Tickets for adults cost 15 euros (about $18.50). You can purchase audio guides (available in English, among other languages) for an additional 6 euros (or a little more than $7). If you purchased a Roma Pass, your admission is included.

Palazzo Doria Pamphili (Pamphilj)

Palazzo Pamphili is a palace facing onto the Piazza Navona (note that this is a different location than the Pamphili Villa and gardens).

In 1644, Cardinal Giambattista Pamphili of the powerful Pamphili family, who already owned a palace between the Piazza Navona and the Via Pasquino, became Pope Innocent X. His election prompted a desire to project his great wealth even more so, and so he engaged in a project to refurbish a larger more magnificent building to reflect the family’s increased prestige. The new project incorporated existing buildings, including the former palace of the Pamphilj (pictured above) and the Palazzo Cibo.

Today, it is a family home that has an upstairs world class art gallery. The audio guide is quite worth your trouble, as it is narrated by the family’s current prince. Inside the gallery, you will be able to admire works by Raphael, Tintoretto, Titian, Caravaggio, Bernini and some Flemish masters. The most famous work is Velazquez’s portrait of Pope Innocent the 10th. Visitors advise that viewing the family apartments is worth the extra two euro.

Last but not least, the Palazzo’s hall of mirrors evokes a feeling of Versailles, so you don’t want to miss this one! Note, there is a special Caravaggio tour that runs on Saturdays (must book).

Hours, Tickets & Booking

The gallery is open daily from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm. Admission is €15.Villa entry fee is approximately (wandering the separate gardens is free); it is recommended that you book tickets to tour the villa 24 hours in advance during busy times. Enter the gallery from the main street, Via del Corso, in the heart of Rome. Address: Via del Corso 305, Roma, RM, Italy.

Quick tip for your visit:

Again, the Villa and Palazzo are two different buildings found in two separate locations. The Villa/garden Pamphili, has several entrances, which you will find them marked on Google Maps. Visitors are advised not to enter or exit the garden from Via Aurelia since there is no sidewalk, the street is narrow, and there are crazy drivers. Better to enter from Via di San Pancrazio. The Palazzo, on the other hand, is near Piazza Navona.

Palazzo Colonna

The Palazzo Colonna is a palatial block of buildings in central Rome. You will find it located at the base of the Quirinal Hill, adjacent to the church of Santi Apostoli (very cool…check it out). It is built in part over the ruins of an old Roman serapeum, and it has belonged to the prominent Colonna family for over twenty generations.

The main body of the building was demolished by Pope Boniface VIII and rebuilt in the 14th-century, hosting illustrious personalities such as Emperor Ludovico the Bavarian and Castruccio Castracani, and then Francesco Petrarca, a friend of the family.

Today this building houses the Colonna Gallery, the most famous palace area in Rome, a true gem of Baroque art. The Colonna Gallery was a work of Girolamo Colonna who lived in the first half of the 17th century and who held the positions of cardinal and archbishop of the Catholic Church.

Along with the possessions of the Doria-Pamphilij and Pallavicini-Rospigliosi families, this is one of the largest private art collections in Rome.

Hours of Operation

Every Saturday morning for 4 hours. Tickets are $25.

Palazzo Barberini

Palazzo Barberini is one of the lesser visited museums in Rome. This is hard to understand, considering how it is home to the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica, which houses major works of Renaissance and Baroque art. Here you will find pieces of artists such as Caravaggio, Raphael and Bernini (“Fornarina” by Raphael, “Giuditta e Oloferne” and “Narciso” by Caravaggio, and “Cristo e adultera” by  Tintoretto).

The Barberini palace was conceived as the apotheosis of Pope’s Urban VIII Family and a self-celebration of a dynasty of the former Cardinal Maffeo Barberini, who was elected pope in  1623. The Grand Palace was built by Gianlorenzo Bernini, with the help of Borromini, and painted by Pietro da Cortona, another great baroque artist, who painted the ceiling of the grand hall with the Triumpho of Divine Providence. On the first floor you’ll be able to see gorgeous Renaissance and Baroque paintings and frescoed ceilings.

The museum comprises quite a complex. We don’t include this as one of the major stops on our tour. Though I recommend that you use some of your free time to make a visit. While you are here, don’t forget to check out Borromini’s famous staircase shown here:

In what is probably the museum’s best known piece, you will find Caravaggio’s “Judith Beheading Holofernes.”

Tickets

The museum is open Tuesdays to Sundays from 8:30 am to 7:00 pm. Admission is €12 and includes a ticket to Palazzo Corsini, which is located in Trastevere.

Caravaggio – Rome’s Original “Bad Boy”

Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, known as simply Caravaggio, was an Italian painter active in Rome for most of his artistic life. Caravaggio was active during the Counter Reformation time period (note that the Counter Reformation was initiated as a response to the Protestant Reformation ), and so he arrived in Rome around 1592 or 1593 during the papacy of Pope Clement VIII, who was Pope from 1592-1605.

It was during the time period of approximately 1600 to 1606 that Caravaggio became recognized as the most famous painter in Rome. Among his many works, some of which we will visit during our tour, the paintings that hang in the Contarelli Chapel, part of the Church of San Luigi dei Francesi (depicted below), are among his most famous. The paintings on the side walls depict the Calling of St Matthew and the Martyrdom of St Matthew, while the altarpiece depicts St Matthew and the Angel.

Note that Caravaggio actually painted two versions of the altarpiece. His first painting was rejected and he was obliged to paint a second version, which is the work that we see here today.

A Life Sacred and Profane

Caravaggio lived a short and tempestuous life. During his time spent living in Rome, Caravaggio was rumored to be madly in love with Fillide Melandroni, a well known Roman prostitute who modeled for several of his important paintings. Known for having a hot temper, Caravaggio was notorious for getting into arguments and fights with his art peers, the police, and many others. No stranger to the Roman courts, he had an extensive trial as well as police record. At one point, in 1606, he killed Ranuccio Tomassoni. And for this he was forced to leave Rome.

From here, he went to live in Naples, where he was able to live and be protected by one of his patrons, the wealthy Colonna family. In 1608 he was yet again arrested for brawly, which caused him to flee to Sicily. His final four years of life found him moving between Naples, Malta, and again to Sicily, where he died.

A Murderer Invents Baroque Painting

It can be said without reservation that Caravaggio almost single-handedly created the Baroque style of painting. Upon arrival in Rome, he was determined to make a name for himself in the art world. With this in mind, and despite having very little money, he managed to form several strategic several friendships with Prospero Orsi, Onorhio Longhi, and Mario Minniti. These men introduced Caravaggio to others who would become his patrons in the art world and help him gain notoriety in this field.

The use of bold colors against a dark background typifies many Caravaggio’s paintings. He is further known for his dramatic manipulation of light, his belief in working with human models, and what might be termed a “non-sentimental” approach to religious art.

Not everyone was a fan, however, as the dramatic intensity reflected in his work was seen be some as vulgar. The fact that so many of his paintings depicted death, sex, violence, and flair for decapitation did not endear him much to the Catholic church. Caravaggio added insult to injury for the sin of painting Biblical characters as ordinary people. Dirty nails, bloody hands, and dirty feet are frequently seen in Caravaggio’s religious paintings. His aesthetics outraged many among the faithful, who felt that he failed to demonstrate sufficient decorum/reverence for the figures he painted.

Consequently, we see Caravaggio rejecting the more typical artistic norms of idealization (an aesthetic development seen even in his early works). Tearing down the acceptable conventions of his time is what enabled him to create his own signature Baroque style. In what eventually came to be known as “Caravaggism,” his work had profound effects on the art world. Doubtless, his work inspired many artists to come in the Baroque school of art. Famous artists who were influenced by Caravaggio include Peter Paul Rubens, Diego Velazquez, Johannes Vermeer, and Rembrandt.

Caravaggio Challenge

Today, there are slightly less than 100 of Caravaggio’s original paintings in existence. Many of them can be found in scattered exhibits and collections around Rome. But to see them all, you would have to embark on nothing short of a world tour. For now, let’s see how many of Caravaggio’s paintings you can see during your short visit here! For a comprehensive list that notes locations, the names of paintings, among other details, you can follow this link

Aventine Hill

The Aventine Hill, located on the south flank of the Circus Maximus, offers lucky wanderers a couple of different attractions. The main draw is THIS VIEW, which is not to be missed! (it’s a good idea to arrive here early in the morning if you want to avoid throngs of onlookers clogging up your Insta photo).

Aventine Keyhole

There is a keyhole at the Piazza dei Cavalieri di Maita, which allows you to see right into the Basilica di San Pietro. As you look, you’ll see there are two rows of trees creating a natural frame giving you an image to remember. The keyhole is without a doubt one of the city’s more intriguing off-the-beaten-path sights. With its nondescript door that reveals a perfectly framed view, it’s a favorite stop for travelers looking for alternative attractions in the city.

A Glorious Hole

The keyhole view lines up perfectly with the garden that overlooks the city, where you can see the Vatican centered in the distance. No one seems to be able to say with certainty whether this was a beautifully planned peepshow—or just a lucky coincidence. Once you experience it, you may be surprised to note that many visitors to the Eternal City leave without knowing it even existed…. but it’s a little surprise that locals enjoy sharing.

The building/door, where the keyhole is located is part of the property owned by the Priory of the Knights of Malta, a Roman Catholic religious order of crusader knights that originated in Jerusalem in the 11th century. It is the oldest surviving chivalric order in the world and is a sovereign entity under international law. The estate also hosts the embassy of the Order of Malta to Italy. The private gardens can be viewed by appointment only.

Address: Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta, 4, 00153 Roma RM; at the intersection of via di S. Sabina and via di Porta Lavernale on the Aventine hill.

Keyhole is open 24 hrs.

Giardino degli Aranci

Also located on the Aventine Hill, the Girardino degli Aranci (Garden of Oranges) is an attraction in itself; it affords picture-perfect strolling under Rome’s trademark umbrella pine trees while offering unparalleled views over the city.

Rome’s Criminology Museum (Museo Criminologico)

Without a doubt one of the more eccentric experiences on offer in Rome is the Museo Criminologico. First conceived in 1930, it was (prior to its opening) a prison. Initially open only to government officials, it was opened to the public in 1994 and is now maintained by the Italian federal government.

Part of the museum is dedicated to artifacts from notorious 20th century criminals, and to judicial methods before the 19th century – execution and torture. Visitors are free to wander the extensive galleries, which offer a showcase of the strange and shocking: torture objects from guns to guillotines, objects used by notorious gangsters, as well as larger full-body torture equipment.

Museo Storico Nazionale dell’Arte Sanitaria

The museum originates as a site of a former anatomical museum, though it increased in size with the addition of the collections of Giovanni Carbonelli and Pietro Capparoni. Located in a wing of the Ospedale di Santo Spirito in Sassia. It includes a well-provisioned library that features books dating from the 16th to the 20th centuries.

Visiting Hours and Tickets

This one may be hard to visit, as the word around town is that visiting hours are “erratic.” Must call ahead and reserve. Entry fee is 7 Euros.

Fontana di Trevi

The Fontana di Trevi, or Trevi Fountain, is by far one of the most beautiful fountains in Rome. A wonderful example of a baroque design, you will find it located on a small piazza, where the fountain dominates the space (it is also the largest fountain in the city, clocking in around 65 feet wide by 85 feet tall). The fountain’s origins date 19 B.C. as it formed the end of the Aqua Virgo aqueduct; it was the first fountain was built during the Renaissance, under the direction of Pope Nicholas V. and finally finished in the mid-1700s.

Interestingly, the name of “Trevi” derives from Tre Vie (three ways). And as it just so happens, the fountain is located at the meeting point of three streets.

Why Do People Throw Coins in the Fountain?

According to local myth (and one very famous film):

If you throw one coin: you will return to Rome.

If you throw two coins: you will fall in love with an attractive Italian.

If you throw three coins: you will marry the person that you met.

*** Note that in order to achieve the desired effect, you should throw the coin with your right hand over your left shoulder 😉

An interesting statistic is that approximately a million euros worth of coins are taken from the fountain each year. Since 2007 this money has been given to the Vatican to support good causes, however, the city of Rome has been debating keeping the money to use for public infrastructure projects.

Fontana dell’ Acqua Paola

Fontana dell’ Acqua Paola (1608-12), which is also known simply as Il Fontanone (The Big fountain), was commissioned by Pope Paul V (r. 1605-21) and designed by Giovanni Fontana (1540-1614) and Flaminio Ponzio (1560-1613). You’ll find it on your way up the Gianicolo Hill high above Trastevere.

The original Fontanone, which was the first major fountain to be erected on the left bank of the Tiber, was fed by the Aqua Trajana, an ancient aqueduct built by the emperor Trajan (r. 98-117). Later, the aqueduct was restored by Pope Paul V and renamed the Acqua Paola. You will find the fountain located at an intersection on the western side of the Trastevere neighborhood.
​Pantheon

The Pantheon is the best preserved ancient building in the center of Rome, where it has continuously been used since the time it was built. The structure was originally built on the site of an earlier temple commissioned by Marcus Agrippa during the reign of Augustus.

The name Pantheon comes from Greek – Pan means all and theos means god = All Gods. The rotunda was built to honor all of the pagan gods. Later, after Rome was christianized, the Pantheon became a Catholic church, which it remains today. For the most part, however, it is a tourist attraction. While you’re there, you can also pay your respects to Raphael, as well as Italian kings Victor Emmanuel II and Umberto I, who are all buried there.

When approaching the front of the Pantheon one can see the inscription above still reads in Latin the original dedication by Marcus Agrippa. The inscription reads:

“M. AGRIPPA L.F. COSTERTIVM FECIT”

Probably one of the most fascinating features of the Pantheon is its perfect architecture. The building’s structure is comprised of a series of intersecting arches. The arches rest on eight piers and they correspond to the eight bays on the floor level that house statues. Romans perfected the use of arches which helped sustain the weight of their magnanimous buildings.

The detail of the building is extraordinary. If the dome of the rotunda were flipped upside down it would fit perfectly inside the rotunda. When approaching the Pantheon from the outside it appears rectangular in shape. But it is only the first small room that has corners. The rotunda itself is completely round.

The Dome and its oculus also make this building an exemplary feat of Roman engineering. Romans were aware of the heavy nature of their building materials. So they used lighter materials toward the top of the dome. On the lowest level, the heaviest material, travertine, was used; above this level, a mixture of travertine and tufa, followed by tufa and brick, then all brick for around the drum section of the dome, topped off with pumice, the lightest and most porous of materials, which was used on the ceiling of the dome.

The oculus was an engineering marvel admired across the Roman world. No oculus had even dared come close in size to the one in the Pantheon. It is still lined with the original Roman bronze and is the main source of light for the whole building. As the earth turns, the light reflects into the interior in an impressive way, no doubt inspiring visitors to contemplate the magnificence of the cosmos. The oculus is never covered, which means that rain falls into the interior and runs off the slightly convex floor into the still functioning Roman drainpipes underneath.

Despite all the marvelous building projects that the emperor Hadrian produced during his reign, he never inscribed his name to any, but one, the temple of his father Trajan. That is why the Roman Pantheon bears the inscription of Marcus Agrippa, and not the emperor Hadrian.

Forum, Colosseum, Palatine Hill

The Roman Forum, also known by its Latin name Forum Romanum, is a rectangular forum surrounded by the ruins of several important ancient government buildings at the center of the city of Rome. Situated on low ground between the Palatine and Capitoline hills, the Forum was the scene of public meetings, law courts, gladiatorial combats, and a prison; in republican times, it was lined with shops and open-air markets. Later, under the empire, it primarily became a center for religious and secular spectacles and ceremonies.

Although it is not as popular as the Colosseum, many find the Roman Forum is a good deal more interesting. Among the structures surviving in whole or in part are the Temple of Castor and Pollux, Mamertine Prison, the Curia (senate house), the Temple of the Deified Caesar, the Temple of Vesta, the Temple of Saturn, the Temple of Romulus, the Cloaca Maxima, as well as the Arches of Titus and Septimius Severus among other structures.

You will have plenty of time to roam around, as it were, checking out the ruins in what is again one of the world’s largest open-air museums. In order to acquire better context for what you are looking at, you might find it is a good strategy to download an app onto your phone (or stream an audio guide) that can assist you with identifying some of the major sites (travel forums sometimes complain there is very little written on the informational plaques posted throughout the forum). Also, do note there is almost no cover/shade at the site, so wear weather-appropriate attire.  

Le Domus Romane di Palazzo Valentini

The Domus were two Roman villas dating back to the 1st and 4th century AD. They are visited on a tour that goes above a glass floor, from which the villas’ interiors are visible.

What makes visiting the Domus Romane interesting is the use of modern technology – light, sound and video – to show that the villas must have looked like when they were in use.

The house type referred to as the domus (Latin for “house”) is taken to mean a structure designed for either a nuclear or extended family and located in a city or town. The domus as a general architectural type is long-lived in the Roman world, although some development of the architectural form does occur. While the sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum provide the best surviving evidence for domus architecture, this typology was widespread in the Roman world.

Hours: the site is currently open only on Fridays from 2:00 to 8:00 pm, and on Saturdays and Sundays from 10:00 am to 4:00 pm. You can only visit on a guided tour, which lasts around 1.5 hours. You can book it here – it costs €13.50. Photos aren’t permitted.

Domus Aurea

The Domus Aurea (means “Golden House” in Latin) was a vast landscaped complex built by the Emperor Nero, located on the Oppian Hill in the heart of ancient Rome after the great fire in 64 AD had destroyed a large part of the city. It only opened to the public a few years ago, and much of it still has to be excavated. As far as secret places go in Rome, it is hard to beat – you have to book a tour and wear a hard hat to visit!

During the reign of Trajan, the villa was used as a foundation for his public baths and he made sure that doors and windows were sealed and that art pieces were removed – yet you can still admire some of the frescoes, despite the fact that dirt is covering most of it while everything is taking back to its former glory by restorers.

In light of its past association with Nero, it was considered to be a severe embarrassment to his successors as a symbol of decadence and so it was stripped of its marble, jewels, and ivory within a decade of his passing. Again, you must book a tour to see this site.

The Domus Aurea is open every day from 9:00 am to 6:30 pm. It can only be visited on guided tours which cost €12 (Monday to Wednesday) or €18 (Thursday to Sunday).

Roman Catacombs

The Roman Catacombs are one of the world’s most famous underground cemeteries. Situated beneath one of ancient Rome’s most important roads, the Via Appia Antica, the catacombs were once a hiding place for persecuted Christians. The majority of the catacombs date from the 2nd to 5th centuries and contain the tombs of Christians, martyrs and even of some popes.

“All Roads Lead to Rome” Via Appia Antica (Appian Way)

You’ve probably heard the saying “All Roads Lead to Rome.” Well, the Via Appia Antica or “Appian Way” is a big part of why they say this! The road itself is one of the great marvels of the Roman Empire. Stretching 560 kilometers from Rome to Brindisi, the Appian Way was built in 312 BC and remains one of the oldest surviving roads in the world. The road’s namesake is Appius Claudius Caecus, the wealthy Roman politician who implemented the road project.

Today, the road exists much as it did 2300 years ago. Originally conceived to connect Rome to places like Naples and Brindisi, it was mainly used for military and commercial purposes. The road showcases stunning stone craftsmanship which, as you can see here, was perfectly cobbled and fitted with stones. The stones are so tightly fitted in some places, you would need a knife to pry them apart!

In keeping with the Roman tradition, bodies could not be buried in the city. Instead, tombs were built around the outskirts. Catacombs, some of which are fairly elaborate, were built beneath much of the road, where Romans, who were given Christian burials, had their bodies placed within them. Many wealthy Romans were buried in family plots signified by monuments that stretch along both sides of the Via Appia (they are easily visible as you walk or bike down the road). According to legend, St. Peter met Jesus along the road while he was fleeing Rome.

Walk or Bike?

The majority of the Via Appia Antica can still be walked. Start your visit at the point where the road is considered to begin at the 5th century Porta San Sebastiano, the largest gate of the Aurelian Wall. This gate was originally known as Porta Appia, however, it was changed later due to the influx of pilgrims who passed through it on their way to visit the Basilica of San Sebastiano and its catacombs. You can find it located at the intersection of the Viale di Porta Adreatina and Via Appia Antica and start your journey here.

If you decide to visit this legendary road, don’t miss the top six landmarks to see along the Appian Way to make the most of your visit. At the very least, be sure to make time to check out the Catacombe di San Callisto and San Sebastiano and perhaps even the tomb of Cecilia Metella. Travelers have noted that visitors should come prepared with good walking shoes and water, and also to visit during the day as the area becomes a bit seedy come nightfall. This site might be better accessed traveling as part of a small group.

Catacombe di San Callisto is the biggest and most popular of the catacombs. It has a network of galleries about 19 km long and 20 meters deep. Highlights of the catacombs include the crypts of nine popes, as well as numerous early Christian frescoes, paintings, and sculptures. 

Note that the bones of the dead have been removed from all of the catacombs along the Appian Way (or relocated to areas deep in the tunnels). What you see now are honeycombs of burial niches that once held bones and, in some cases, urns with ashes.

The Catacombs of San Callisto, unlike most of the other attractions along the Via Appia, tends to cater to the coach (tour bus) crowd. This means plan to go early if you want to avoid them. Enter the small information center/gift shop, where you can join guided tours of the catacombs in a language that you understand. Right next to the exit when you depart you will notice a sign for another area with smaller catacombs (San Sabastiano). And not far off the Via Appia (look out for signs) are the Domitilla Catacombs (located on Via della Sette Chiese – more on this later in the post), which are also very interesting!

Walk/Bike the Via Appia

Regardless of whether you decide to bike or walk, you might alternatively start your trip a bit further south, beginning at the Visitor Information Center on Via Appia Antica. This particular point is serviced by local buses from Rome. The visitor center, although small, dispenses maps and information that highlight the sights along the Via Appia. Note, however, that most of the low key “attractions” are within the first kilometer from the visitor center.

For added fun, if the weather is nice, you might want to try renting a bike! (you will need to show/leave behind a driver license or some formal photo ID – just don’t leave your passport). I will totally be doing this one day, so you can ride along with me!

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma

The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma is an opera house in Rome, Italy. Originally opened in November 1880 as the 2,212 seat Costanzi Theatre, it has undergone several changes of name as well modifications and improvements. The present house seats 1,600. Performances are scheduled throughout the year with dates and ticket information updated on the Teatro website. Or you may simply stop by and take a tour during posted hours.

Famous Basilicas

Here are a couple of what I would say are “must see” basilicas in Rome (not including the Vatican and the Basilica of St. Peter). Many of them contain some of the major works of art that we will discuss in the course and some are just, well – very interesting!

Located somewhat distant from the Colosseum, the Basilica of St. John Lateran doesn’t get as many visitors as it should. Otherwise known as the Archbasilica of the Most Holy Saviour and Saints John the Baptist and the Evangelist at the Lateran, it is Rome’s oldest and most important papal basilica (the others being St Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican, the Basilica of St Paul Outside the Walls and the Basilica of St Mary Major). It is where popes resided for ten centuries and is the official seat of the Pope in the capital city. You can find it in the lovely Esquilino neighborhood. Note that it is easily reached by metro (just get off in San Giovanni), so stop in for a visit after touring the Colosseum.

First built in the 4th century, it was almost completely rebuilt by Borromini in the 17th century, though the main facade is the work of Galilei in the 18th century. The latter followed the style of St Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican, resulting in the basilica’s current Baroque style. The magnificent interior is characterized by its breath-taking decorations, sculptures, marble and mosaics.

Right outside the church, there is the Lateran Obelisk, considered the largest standing Egyptian obelisk in the world. The highlight of the church is the Scala Sancta, a stairway of 28 steps thought to be the one Jesus climbed to go to his trial in Jerusalem.

Hours: the church is open daily from 7:00 am to 6:30 pm. The Baptistery is open daily from 7:30 am to 12:30 pm and from 4:00 to 6:30 pm. Visiting the church is free.

The Basilica of St. Mary Major (near the Roma Termini train station) is another of the four papal basilicas; it is the largest of the 26 churches in Rome that are dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Here we find yet another church built over a pagan temple (dedicated to the goddess Cybele). At one time, it was a papal residence (the tombs of some past popes can be found here). An official UNESCO World Heritage Site, this 5th century basilica features diverse architectural styles, ranging from the Early Christian to the Baroque.

The church is open daily from 7:00 am. to 6:45 pm. The museum is open daily from 9:30 am to 6:30 pm and has a €4 admission fee.

Church of San Luigi dei Francese

If you’re a fan of Caravaggio, you’ll want to get up inside this church asap! The Church of San Luigi dei Francese (Church of St. Louis of the French) is conveniently located between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon in the center of Rome. Inside its dark confines you will find exquisite examples of Baroque art, including three of Caravaggio’s most important masterpieces.

The church was originally built to glorify France through the representation of its saints and important historical characters: the facade features the statues of Charlemagne, St Louis, Saint Clotilde, and St. John of Valois.

A bit of context helps to interpret this work. This particular church building, not just the major basilicas like St. Peter’s, proliferated throughout the Counter Reformation period (a period that emerged out of the Reformation period). Roman society in this time period consisted of many rich and powerful families as well as many, many more poor people. The rich, not surprisingly, often became patrons of artists. All of the new churches needed ornate decoration and so there were numerous opportunities for artists. Caravaggio initially painted for this private market.

The preferred building style of the Church, Baroque, is typical of the Counter Reformation and the Catholic Church. Baroque architecture, including its artistic embellishments, sought to access the emotions and make a visible statement of the wealth and power of the Church (much to the chagrin of men like Martin Luther).

One cannot help but notice the violence in the Martyrdom of St Matthew. This is perhaps a reflection of Caravaggio’s own brutishly violent lifestyle, which was typical of the times. In this regard, it can be said that he was simply painting what he saw happening in the Rome during his lifetime (he was known to proudly walk around Rome wearing a sword). As for temperament, he was known to become offended easily and he fought frequently.

Between 1600, with the installation of the first Matthew painting and 1606, when Caravaggio fled Rome, he produced more than 30 works of art. About half are still in Rome, while significant works like Death of the Virgin, Taking of Christ, two Supper at Emmaus, Amor Victorious, Crowning with Thorns and Incredulity of St. Thomas now reside elsewhere in collections throughout Europe.

Finally, when you’ve had enough of art-gazing inside the church, make sure you take a moment to wander outside to admire the view of Rome from the church’s Franciscan garden.

Free Admission

Hours: daily 10:00 – 12:30 | 15:00 – 19:00
Closed Thursday afternoon

Mass Hours
Mon – Fri: 19:30
Saturday: 12:30
Holidays: 10:30

Chiesa Nuova – Parrocchia Santa Maria in Vallicella

Santa Maria in Vallicella, also called “Chiesa Nuova,” is one of the great 16th century Counter-Reformation preaching-churches of Rome; it is the principal church of the Oratorians, a body of priests and lay-brothers founded in 1575 by San Filippo Neri (1515-95), whose shrine is located here.

The church faces onto the main thoroughfare of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the corner of Via della Chiesa Nuova. The building facade features the work of Fausto Rughesi and was completed in 1605. Here, you see the statues of St Gregory the Great and St Jerome, by Giovanni Antonio Paracca (1546-99), better known as il Valsoldo. His baptism is recorded in the parish archive of San Mamete in Valsolda, which says he was born in the town of Castello Valsolda on 21.11.1546.

The emblem of St Philip Neri is a flaming heart (cor flammigerum), which can be seen throughout the church. As a young man, Neri was known to spend his nights praying in the catacombs of St Sebastian. One night he had a vision of a globe of fire which descended and entered his heart. 

The Chiesa Nuova is also home to three paintings by Peter Paul Rubens (1577-1640), the only works by the great Flemish artist still to be found in a Roman church. A small, oval panel on his painting of the Madonna and Child with Angels (high altar), can be moved aside to reveal the icon of Santa Maria in Vallicella, a miraculous image once seen, it is claimed, to shed blood. 

Chiesa di Sant’ Ignazio di Loyola

The Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola at Campus Martius is a spectacular Baroque Roman Catholic church, of deaconry rank, dedicated to Ignatius of Loyola, the founder of the Jesuits (Society of Jesus).

This important Jesuit church, which is not far from the Pantheon, boasts a Carlo Maderno facade and two celebrated trompe l’œil frescoes by Andrea Pozzo (1642–1709). One cleverly depicts a fake dome, while the other, on the nave ceiling, shows St Ignatius Loyola being welcomed into paradise by Christ and the Madonna. Thanks to Pozzo’s use of perspective, a group of figures, led by St Ignatius, appear to float upwards toward heaven, as they ascend past the church’s soaring columns and arches.

While the church’s facade may not be as resplendent as others in Rome, don’t let that deter you; the interior is exquisite. The building was inspired by the Jesuit mother church, the Church of the Gesù in Rome (finished in the late 16th century). Take time to explore here, because there are many little surprises to be discovered.

Admission: free

Church of the Gesù

The Church of the Gesù (Italian: Chiesa del Gesù, officially named Chiesa del Santissimo Nome di Gesù all’Argentina (English: Church of the Most Holy Name of Jesus at the “Argentina”), is located in Rome, in Piazza del Gesù in the district of Piazza Venezia, and belongs to the 16^th century, the period of the early Baroque. The church is the core of the Jesuits sanctuaries belonging to the Society of Jesus. 

The church of the Gesù is famous for its most remarkable design element – the grandiose ceiling painting, by Giovanni Battista Gaulli, dated in the 17th century.

Inside the church is a museum, which can be visited on Saturdays from 04:00 p.m. till 06:00 p.m. Otherwise, you should plan to book a visit to the museum at any time you want on the church’s website.

• Hours: daily from 7:00 a.m. till 07:45 p.m.; break from 12:30 p.m. till 04:00 p.m.
• Admission: Free.
• Website: www.chiesadelgesu.org

Basilica of Saint Praxedes

The Basilica of Saint Praxedes, commonly known in Italian as Santa Prassede, is an ancient titular church and minor basilica located near the papal basilica of Saint Mary Major in rione Monti; it was built by Pasquale I in the ninth century and restored several times, over the centuries, altering its original features.

Inspired by classical mausoleums, its Chapel of Saint Zenon is the most important Byzantine monument preserved in Rome. Inside, you will find incredible mosaics with figures of saints on the walls, and above all, on the vault, the figure of the Savior within a medallion. The bust of Bishop Santoni, Bernini’s first sculptural work, is also in the church.

Basilica di Sant’Andrea delle Fratte

In 1842, a young French Jew named Alphonse Ratisbonne had a sudden and unexpected vision of Our Lady at the church, which led him to convert to the Catholic Church (he had lapsed from the practice of Judaism previously). Together with his brother he went on to found the Congregation of Notre-Dame de Sion, a religious family of priests, lay brothers and sisters dedicated to the conversion of the Jews to Christianity. The Basilica has a magnificent Baroque fresco in the center area, where Bernini’s angelic sculptures (the ones from the Ponte Sant’Angelo) are situated on the sides.

The Cutest Little Church in Rome: Santa Barbara dei Librai

You can find this church located a short distance away from Campo dei Fiori. Look for it in a triangular piazza off of Via dei Giubbonari. Santa Barbara dei Librai was built in the 11th century on top of the ruins of the Theater of Pompey. There is also a terrific mini-pizza place here (on the left), where you can score a cheap personal sized pizza known for its perfect crunch!

Campo dei Fiori

Although it is a bit touristic now, Campo dei Fiori is still charming and offers a few delights. Check out the famous butcher shop if you are in the area.

Basilica Santa Pudenziana

Known for it’s mosaics, you might stop in for a visit here if you find yourself in the Monti neighborhood.

Basilica di San Clemente

Archaeology buffs will find the Basilica di San Clemente holds a good deal more than meets the eye, as it’s a veritable nesting doll of churches! At first glance, you confront what appears to be a shabby old building; it’s seems hardly a church at all. Oh, but what you would be missing if you don’t stop for a visit. So many shadow-cloaked subterranean pleasures!

The present-day basilica that you see before you was founded during the Medieval period and was the former house of a member of the Roman aristocracy. It was built on top of a site used by early Christians to hide while praying, at a time when their religion was still illegal in Rome. A series of excavations brought out different levels of the church: a second century pagan temple, which is underneath a fourth-century church, underneath a 12th-century church. Current excavations discovered there is yet another older level, which was destroyed in 64 AD during the fire caused by Nero.

Consequently, when entering the old building of the Basilica (itself more than 900 years old), it is easy to automatically think this is the original building – wrong! This building is actually referred to as the chiesa nuova or “new” church.

As you enter the 12th-century church from the street level, have a look around the sacristy when you make your entrance, then look for the stairs that take you down to the fourth-century church and the shrine for Mithras. Here, despite the cold, darkness, and moisture, you will still be able to see numerous frescoes on the walls, and later some fragments of mosaics that at one time covered the temple floor.

As you descend, prepare yourself to venture back almost 2000 years as you make your way to the ruins of the old temple dedicated to Mithra, now located in the middle of what was once a private Roman house. The temple is surrounded by other rooms (its like a maze walking around here), which were possibly used as schools or dining rooms for ritual meals. Mithras was a sun god from the East and his cult, reserved only to men, became pretty popular in Rome, in particular during the imperial age. In one of the rooms on this level, you can still see water flowing through the Cloaca Maxima, the main sewer system of ancient Rome.

Hours & Tickets

The church is free to enter, but there is a small fee to go down to the lower levels, which people say is worth the cost.

Location: Via Labicana 95, 00184 Rome Italy. The church is open Monday to Friday from 9:00 am to 12:30 pm and from 3:00 to 6:00 pm; Saturdays and Sundays from 12:00 to 6:00 pm. Admission is €10.

You must buy tickets to visit Saint Clemente’s lower level excavations, which are available inside the Basilica. Past travelers warn to be on guard for beggars outside the church, some of whom pretend to be affiliated with the church and tell visitors they can’t enter unless they give a donation.

Domatilla Catacombs

The Catacombs of Domitilla are the oldest catacombs in Rome. Named after the Domitilla family that initially ordered them to be dug, they are located approximately 16 meters underground (2 kilometers from the south end of of Appia Antica on Via Sette Chiese). Tour groups at St. Domitilla tend to be smaller than at other places; however, one of the trip highlights is a 2nd-century fresco of the Last Supper. This is the only one of the catacombs with an underground basilica, and the only one that still contains burial remains (but no bones). Sadly, the are located somewhat distant to the center city and photos are prohibited inside the tunnels, but you can still take some outside the tunnels like the one shown here.

Begin your tour by walking downstairs under the gift shop. Suddenly, you will yourself in an underground church. Candles light the way as you venture deeper into what comprises almost 17 km of galleries and corridors that are set over four different levels and make up the catacombs. This is, as you will see, a very tightly packed underground cemetery (more than 150,000 burials estimated) that has many twists and turns. Thankfully you will have a tour guide, otherwise it would be easy to get hopelessly lost down there, where you might inadvertently end up starring in your very own horror film!

You have to have a tour guide in order to explore the catacombs. And trust me, you’ll want one. It is quite easy to get lost down there – and you won’t be entirely sure of what you’re looking at and why. This one comes highly recommended: Dark Rome Crypts & Catacombs. A bus will take you to each location on the tour (sites include: Catacombs of Domitilla, San Callisto, or Santa Priscilla, Basilica of San Martino ai Monti, and the Capuchin Crypt and Museum). Tours last 3.5 hrs. and the approximate cost is $65.

Having said this, note that it is very dark inside the catacombs in many points; if you’re claustrophobic, this is not the place for you. All in all, you will find it to be a fascinating as well as impressive place where you can also see the examples of the earliest Christian art dating back to the late 2nd century. Last but not least, you are 16 meters underground, so it’s chilly down there. Make sure you bring a jacket to stay warm.

Bonus: snack machines and clean bathrooms are available on site!

Capuchin Crypt

One of the most unusual burial sites in Italy and probably the spookiest place in Rome is the Capuchin Crypt, located beneath the Capuchin Church of Santa Maria della Concezione, the Immaculate Conception (built in 1645). The church used to be the home of the Capuchin friars.

Built in the 17th century with the bones and skulls of the friars that died at the monastery, if skeletons freak you out don’t go. The crypt contains the bones of more than 4,000 Capuchin monks, many of which are arranged in patterns and form objects such as a clock. Almost everything here is made of human bones!

This is a very small museum so it is easily overlooked. The church and museum are found at the Barberini Square Metro stop on Via Veneto. Note there is a small fee (about 9 Euro) to enter the crypt. Some advise booking online with a guide, though you will note this option can be a bit pricey. Take your chances and show up early to avoid the tour busses. It won’t take you long to go through the exhibit (15 minutes max), so no need to hurry. Enjoy exploring the rooms, which are full of surprises! A total “must see” if you are into creepy stuff. Honestly, how could you not visit a place that has a chandelier made of human bones? Hellz yeah!

A plaque at the entrance of one of the chapels reads:

WHAT YOU ARE, WE ONCE WERE. WHAT WE ARE, YOU WILL BE

Hours & Tickets: the Capuchin Museum and Crypt is open every day from 9:00 am to 7:00 pm. Admission is €9 Euro. Location is not far from the statue of Triton.

Mausoleum of Emperor Augustus

Augustus, known as “Caesar Augustus” or “Octavian,” or simply “Caesar” was the Roman emperor Julius Caesar’s great-nephew whom he adopted as his son and heir. Born Gaius Octavius on September 23, 63 BCE, the future Augustus was distantly related to Caesar.

Augustus is considered to be the first Roman emperor, reigning from 27 BC until his death in AD 14. His status as the founder of the Roman Principate consolidated a legacy as one of the most effective leaders in history.

Augustus surpassed his great-uncle Julius, in terms of power and longevity. For it was Octavian who, with Cleopatra’s treasure, established himself as emperor and effectively ended the Roman Republic. Likewise, it was Octavian, under the name Augustus, who fashioned the Roman Empire into a military and political machine. The Empire founded by Augustus lasted for almost 1,500 years., and includes the 200-year time period known as “Pax Romana” (Roman Peace).

Sadly, for the better part of the last 80 years, the mausoleum was run-down and overcome with weeds, so it restricted access to visitors. After being fully closed for the last 14 years, the tomb was finally opened in March of 2021.

Quite the edifice, as you can see here, it takes up an entire city block; it is Rome’s largest circular tomb. As such, it stands among the largest ancient tombs in the world (not including the pyramids of Egypt). The circular walls of the tomb were made of brick and clad in white marble or travertine. The roof was supported by vaults. Inside, the tomb was divided into sections to accommodate family burials. The finished Mausoleum was 295 feet in diameter and stands at about 137 feet high (not counting the height of the cypress trees).

While the mausoleum construction dates to approximately 28 BC., in the 12th century it was converted into a fortress by the Colonna family (the same fate occured for the tomb of Hadrian, now the Castel Sant’Angelo). When they were defeated by the Counts of Tusculum in the Battle of Monte Porzio in 1167, the Mausoleum was stripped of its fortifications leaving it in ruin. Nonetheless, as recently as the late 19th- and early 20th century, the building as used as a concert hall. The outer buildings surrounding it were, unfortunately, demolished by Mussolini in the late 1930’s.

Famous Last Words

On his deathbed, Augustus famously declared: “I found Rome of clay; I leave it to you of marble.”

Location: find the mausoleum in Piazza Augusto Imperatore, alongside Via Ripetta and Richard Meiers’ Ara Pacis museum, which contains Augustus’s Altare della Pace, to commemorate the peace created by the emperor.

Pincio Promenade

The Pincio Promenade (or Pincian Hill) is yet another “must see” in your quest to enjoy the best views over the city of Rome. You will find this popular terrace/promenade on the southwest corner of the Borghese gardens, where it overlooks the Piazza del Popolo and the city. This terrace lies within the equally gorgeous Villa Borghese park. Note how it faces the west, so make it a point to visit during sundown, where you can enjoy magnificent “golden hour” views.

Directly below the terrace you will see the Piazza del Popolo (people’s square), and beyond it the ever-charming Prati district. The main sight to behold here is that of the Basilica of St Peter and Vatican city. The Piazza del Popolo is located inside the northern gate of the city, which was once called Porta Flaminia. Historically, the name of the piazza derives from the Poplars after which the church of Santa Maria del Popolo (northeast corner of the piazza) was named.

An Egyptian obelisk dedicated to Ramesses II, called Flaminio Obelisk, is located at the center of the piazza. Erected in the Circus Maximus during the tenth century, it was later transferred to Piazza del Popolo in 1589. In modern times, Piazza del Popolo is considered a preferred location for the final rally of a political campaign, but in 1825 it was the scene of a gruesome beheading of two Italian patriots.

The two churches that form a focal point on the pizza are Santa Maria dei Miracoli and Santa Maria in Montesanto. While they may look identical from the exterior, their interiors hide several noteworthy differences.

While you are up here on the Pincio Promenade, don’t forget there is another spectacular view that you can find nearby at the Terazza Viale del Belvedere (located a few hundred meters south). After taking in the sweeping vistas across Rome, you might take a relaxing stroll around the regal spaces of the beautiful Villa Borghese park. This is undoubtedly one of the most romantic panoramic views in Rome.

Rome Libraries

Not to be missed by bibliophiles are three of the most beautiful libraries in Rome: Biblioteca Casanatense, Biblioteca Angelica, and the Vatican Library.

Biblioteca Casanatense

The Dominican cardinal Girolamo Casanata opened this library to the general public in 1701.  Since 1870, however, the Italian government has administered the library. The original catalogue was around 25,000 volumes and donated by Casanata to the Dominican convent of Santa Maria sopra Minerva along with a large endowment fund for the purchase new books. Amongst the library’s possessions are Greek and Hebrew texts, Roman governmental proclamations, and comedies of the 17th and 18th centuries.

Location: Via S. Ignazio, 52
Open Mon-Fri (8.15am-7m) and Sat (8.15am-1.30pm). Visitors must be 16+ years old

Angelica Library

Established in 1604 by the Augustinian bishop Angelo Rocca, it was first opened to the public in 1609. The Angelica library can be found near Piazza Navona. The library holds around 120,000 manuscripts, many of which are considered key documents on the Reformation and Counter-Reformation. Other library assets include Bibles, 2,700 Latin, Greek and Oriental volumes, plus Italian literature and theater from the 15th to 18th centuries. Highlights are rare editions of works by Dante, Petrarch, and Boccaccio. Open to anyone 16 years and older with valid documentation.

Location: Piazza Sant’Agostino, 8
Open Mon, Fri, Sat (8.30am-1.45pm) and Tues, Wed, Thurs (8.30am-7pm). Visitors must be over 16 years old. Guided group visits are available on Wed and Fri (9am-2pm).

Antica Libreria Cascianelli

One of the oldest bookstores in Rome, the Antica Libreria Cascianelli, is a treasure chest of rare books, objects d’art, antiques and prints. It’s only a 2-min walk from Piazza Navona, so stop by when you are in the area!

Address: Largo Febo, 15, 00186 Roma; Hours: M-S, 10:00 a.m. – 7:30PM; Sun 4-8:00 p.m.

Vatican Library

One of the oldest libraries in the world, it was officially established in 1475 but its priceless collection has been around for much longer. Some sources claim that the library has existed since the 4th century.

The Vatican Library houses not only the theological documents of the papacy, but other fascinating secular artifacts, including Henry VIII’s love letters and one of the 50 bibles custom made for the first ever Christian Roman Emperor, Constantine. With almost 2 million books inside its stores, the treasures of The Vatican Library are boundless.

The library is typically not open to undergraduates or high school students. However, you can acquire a short-term pass with the appropriate documents.

Location: Cortile del Belvedere, Vatican City
Mon to Fri (8.45am-12pm), Tues and Thurs (3pm-4pm). Visit www.vaticanlibrary.va for special admission criteria.

Largo di Torre Argentina

Largo di Torre Argentina is an archeological site not far from the Tiber river. Often thought to be the place where Julius Cesar was murdered (he was actually killed at the Theater of Pompey, a couple of blocks away), it is perhaps now more famous for being Rome’s biggest as well as oldest cat sanctuary.

Bocca de la Verita

“Bocca de la Verita” (Mouth of Truth) is a marble mask in Rome, Italy. This giant sculpture (diameter of 1.75 meters) is dedicated to the God of the Sea, represented here by a bearded male face with holes for the eyes, nose, and mouth. You’ll find it positioned on the left wall of the portico of the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church, at the Piazza della Bocca della Verità.

The sculpture is famous for attracting visitors who audaciously stick their hand in the mouth. According to legend, if a liar puts their hand inside its mouth, they will lose it. The story probably originates from Roman times. As it is told, the rich wife of a Roman noble was accused of adultery. While she denied the accusations, her husband nonetheless wanted to test her by taking her to the Mouth of Truth to judge her faithfulness!

Heads up – it is very common to see large numbers of people lining up to be photographed with their hand inside the Mouth of Truth, so plan ahead! There is also a small 2Euro fee, which helps pay preservation costs.

Eating Rome

Italy is without a doubt one of the great gastronomic capitals in the world. To be sure, there is plenty of great food on offer in Rome, but chances are you might not find it unless you plan ahead. That’s because in Rome, you will spend a lot of time walking….and when you are tired, it’s easy to take a load off and plop down at the nearest table or cute corner bar. If you do this, you can almost plan on being overcharged for surly service for microwaved pasta. Given this (and because friends don’t let friends eat terrible food), we’ll provide you with information in class that will help you to access a handy list of safe bet places in all budget ranges.

Multiple Courses

A typical trattoria menu will cover several courses – be advised that it is not necessary for you to always order all of them. It’s okay to simply have a pasta and a salad without ordering a “secondi” (second meat course).

Note that pasta portions are typically smaller in Italy than what you might find in the USA, however, they are rich hearty dishes. That means you won’t be hungry later.

Vegetables (contorni) are usually ordered separately – they will be offered as side dishes or salads and are not typically served with main courses. Romans are quite fond of artichokes (carciofi) so make sure you find a way to try some, as they are wonderful!

Pizza is almost always a good affordable option. Fast food Roman style is a slice to go (pizza al taglio), though this is generally sold in places that specialize in this (don’t ask for a slice to go in a traditional “sit-down” pizzeria or cafe). When you find a place that advertises pizza al taglio, you simply pick your slice and are charged by the weight. Also worthy of note is that Italians almost always drink beer with pizza rather than wine….but you do you.

Breakfast is not really a thing in Italy but many Italian will grab a cornetto (cone shaped pastry filled with cream/custard) with their morning espresso. They are heaven on earth, so be sure to enjoy a good one!

A popular street food since Roman times is porchetta (spit-roasted boneless pork) – it’s eaten across Italy and beyond, but reputedly hails from the hill-towns around Rome; it is usually eaten in a sandwich. And many pasta dishes riff on guanciale, cured pork jowl, which is like meatier bacon or pancetta. Aristocampo sells wonderful porchetta – locations at Trastevere, and Campo dei Fiori

The most important cheese is the local hard sheep’s milk pecorino. Enjoy it with prepared fruit spreads, as it is wonderful! You will find these dishes on just about every menu in the city:

• Cacio e pepe – spaghetti served with pecorino and pepper
• La gricia – spaghetti served with guanciale and pecorino
• Carbonara – spaghetti served with pecorino, egg, and pepper
• All’amatriciana – spaghetti or bucatini served with tomato and guanciale

Most pasta dishes in the region are simple and highly seasoned, and either meaty, cheesy or creamy. However, the sea isn’t far away so these days you will also find seafood pasta options on the menu. Pasta in Rome is generally of the dried variety rather than the fresh egg pasta favored in the north.

Sitting down anywhere with a view or near the main landmarks is going to be EXPENSIVE, so buyer beware. You may pay as much as €10 extra for a view or to be near a popular landmark. The best places for budget sit-down meals tend to be outside the historic center and are located off the well-worn tourist tracks. A little planning will go a long way in saving your wallet here.

Living La Dolce Vita: Trastevere, Monti, and The Jewish Ghetto

Rome knows how to let its hair down. Just walking around the districts of Trastevere, Monte, and a bit further afield in Testaccio will give you a sense of how Romans enjoy their nightlife, especially during the warmer summer months. Terraces are packed, windows are open, and bars spill out onto the sidewalks and river paths, creating a magnificent scene, where young revelers, romantic couples, and the older generations mix together to claim their space to enjoy evenings filled with fun.

Trastevere

Trastevere is a neighborhood where we have stayed during past trips (not this year). It’s a funky bohemian kind of place that has become a haven for throngs of tourists. Known mainly for its warmly hued alley ways, trattorias, bars, and shops, walking down the narrow cobblestone streets in this area will make you immediately start to feel like a local. The young crowd likes to gather around Piazza di San Calisto and Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere, the site of the gilded mosaic-filled church. This area is located on the opposite side of the Tiber river from Rome’s major attractions, where the slight separation offers a nice respite from the pace of the city.

If you are feeling motivated, you can take a walk along the banks of the Tiber river below when the sun is rising and the fog is lifting off the water. Grab a morning shot of espresso (or a Caffé Americano if you must) at the local bar. Yes, I did say bar. In Italy, bars do not serve only alcohol; they are everyone’s first stop of the day before heading to work for coffee and a sweet pastry. One of the great things about Italy and especially Rome is that you’ll find consistently good, and very reasonably priced, coffee everywhere! Just don’t ask for coffee “to go.” Never. It’s just not a think that you do here. Stand at the bar and drink your coffee shot like a true Roman.

Additionally, you might want to check out the market at Porta Portese. This Sunday morning market (open from about 6 a.m. to 2 p.m.) is one that travel experts say fashionistas won’t want to miss. While vendors sell everything from books to antiques (and antique lookalikes), the market’s main focus is on clothing – both new and used.

As you make your way to the neighborhood, look for Piazza di Santa Maria, which lies in the heart of the district. Wind your way around Via del Moro, taking in all of its many shops and cafes. Along the way, feel free to divert into the quiet cobblestone side streets lined with ivy that tumbles over faded paintwork.

The young crowds and tourists gather around the piazzas, not only Piazza Santa Maria but also Piazza di San Calisto. Take a seat on the steps of the fountain – a great spot for people-watching. While you are here, be sure to check out Isola Tiberina, Chiesa Santa Cecelia, and the Sistine Bridge. The Ponte Sisto, as it is called, connects the Piazza Trilussa in Trastevere with the city center.

The point is SLOW DOWN while you are here and enjoy slow culture. This is something that is almost impossible to do in the U.S., so don’t let the opportunity pass you by!

Also worthy of note, if you happen to be here on a Sunday morning, pop along to Porta Portese in the neighborhood to experience an authentic local market.

Of course, it goes without saying that you leave the piazza at some point and visit the Basilica di Santa Maria. Step inside its cool dimly lit interior to view the gilded Cavallini mosaics that depict, according to myth, the font of oil that spouted when Christ was born – and the reason why the church was founded on this very spot.

Cut across busy Viale Trastevere and wind your way down peaceful lanes to Piazza di Santa Cecilia. The Basilica di Santa Cecilia was built on top of the saint’s house, where in the year 230 she supposedly survived decapitation for three days and when her tomb was opened in 1599 her body was incorrupt. Visit the crypt, admire the mosaics, and if you ring the bell the nuns will show you the last remaining Cavallini frescoes in Rome.

If we have some extra time, we’ll head to the northern limit of Trastevere to visit the Renaissance era Villa Farnesina, which houses a wonderful collection of art, including works by Raphael. Across the street is Palazzo Corsini, a baroque palace that contains a unique collection of antique art by Titian and Caravaggio.

Behind the palace you will find a lovely oasis to enjoy a respite from your art travels – the University of Rome’s Orto Botanica (botanic garden), which contains ore than 7000 plant species – a perfect place to unwind your day!

Finally, on the far west side of the botanical garden, you will find another hilltop viewing point – the Belvedere del Giancolo. Worth the 20 minute hike to the top! While you are here, don’t forget to check out the famous Acqua Paola fountain at Giancolo park.

The Jewish Ghetto

The Roman Ghetto or Ghetto of Rome was a Jewish ghetto established in 1555 in the Rione Sant’Angelo, in Rome, Italy, in the area surrounded by present-day Via del Portico d’Ottavia, Lungotevere dei Cenci, Via del Progresso and Via di Santa Maria del Pianto, close to the River Tiber and the Theatre of Marcellus. The Jewish community of Rome is probably the oldest in the world outside of the Middle East, with a continuous existence from classical times down to the present day.

Rome’s Ghetto was established by Pope Paul IV in 1555. For more than 300 years, Rome’s Jewish community remained segregated in an area prone to flooding near the banks of the Tiber river. It is, in fact, a direct result of the papal imposed social isolation, walled off from the city proper, that distinct cultural practices, including recipes, began to emerge. In addition to creating food that followed religious dietary laws (kosher), Rome’s Jewish community was limited, in terms of what they could eat/serve by poverty and papal edicts.

Not everyone was upset by this, as the ghetto was welcomed by some Jews who thought that its walls would protect the small Jewish community from possible attacks by Christian mobs and from the forces of assimilation, thereby enabling Jewish religious customs to be observed without interference.

Rome’s Jewish Ghetto was liberated in 1870 and the once poor and persecuted neighborhood is now one of the most elegant areas of the city – where you can walk through ancient Roman ruins one moment and stroll past expensive apartment buildings in the same breath.

As for food, artichokes were cheap and plentiful. And so you find the deep-fried and salted vegetable is a much sought after dish in this part of town and beyond. Likewise, the ricotta and cherry cake came about because of a papal decree that forbade Jews from selling or trading dairy products. One way to hide ricotta? Bake it into a pastry crust and mix it with cherries to further disguise the cheese. This is why you find the pies and cakes have fully closed tops and not the pie-like lattice. Much easier to hide what is inside this way!

Forno Boccione (Pasticceria Boccione). You’re going to be upset with yourself if you miss this one….and that’s easy to do, considering there is no sign to mark the famous bakery in Rome’s Jewish Ghetto. The ricotta e visciole (ricotta and sour cherry) cakes are what bring in the crowds here, so come early to get them before they are all gone! If you are arrive late in the afternoon your are likely to be disappointed. The cakes are sold by weight, and cost about €24 each or €6 for a piece.

Due to a papal decree that at one time forbade Jews from selling or trading any dairy products, the locals had to get a little creative. How to hide the ricotta? That’s simple. Bake it into a pastry crust and mix it with cherries to further disguise the cheese. That is why the cakes are famously browned on top and fully closed, as opposed to being crowned with the lattice that is typical of pies.

Forno di Boccione – Via del Portico d’Ottavia
Rome (Quartiere Ebraico/Jewish Ghetto);

Open Sunday through Thursday from 8 am to 7:30 pm, and Friday from 8 am to 3:30 pm.; Closed: Friday afternoon and Saturday, as well as Jewish High Holidays.

Giancolo Hill

Not far from Trastevere (west of the Tiber river) is the famous Giancolo Hill, or the Janiculum Terrace. Although it requires a bit of a hike, once on top, visitors will be treated to unobstructed, panoramic views of the Eternal City. Still unknown to tourists, it’s a locals’ favorite. If you look closely, you’ll even be able to see the Colosseum. Famous buildings that are easy to spot include: St. Peter’s Basilica and the Altare della Patria. Along with the spectacular views. There are also a few notable monuments on offer, including the Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, or “Il Fontanone,” which was originally built in the early 1600s.

Interestingly, since it sits outside the ancient city, it’s not considered one of the Seven Hills of Rome. For what it’s worth, a cannon goes off here at noon every day to announce the time of day (this has happened every single day for the past 165 years and has never been interrupted once!). So, if you have some time, mounting the hike gives you a way to escape the tourist crush of Rome. Plan to spend a lovely evening here, where you can enjoy the sun setting over St Peter’s Basilica. Afterwards, check out one of the many restaurants and bars that populate the hillside area.

Garbatella

Garbatella is a nice neighborhood in Rome that is still relatively undiscovered. It’s a bit funky and off-beat and close to another cool neighborhood, Quadraro. Increasingly, the area has become a notable site for street art (check out the artist Blu) and became popular among Italians when a tv show was filmed there. The neighborhood was first built in 1918 and until a few years ago it was thought to be a dangerous part of town. Now it is considered one of the best places to live in Rome.

Note that you will find some nice museums and churches located near here, such as St. Paul’s Outside The Walls and Centrale Montemartini.

Best Roman Shopping Streets

Via dei Coronari

Considered one of the most beautiful streets in Rome, you can find this area on the East bank of the Tiber, just a few blocks away from the Ponte Sant’Angelo.

Via del Governo

The “street of the old government” (trans) — refers to the former papal government office at No. 39. The street offers an opportunity to get off the sightseeing circuit to enjoy some of the best shopping in Rome – all of it squeezed into just about one third of a mile and only a few steps from Piazza Navona. Wander around here and you will find well-curated vintage shops, lively aperitivo bars, and some pretty good pizza and gelato (Frigidarium is one of the top ranked gelaterias in Rome).

Rome Cemeteries

This might seem like an odd addition to your travels list, but trust me on this one. The cemeteries, each unique in their own way, are established in in sprawling, fascinating, and beautiful locales. They are well worth your time for a visit. While on the one hand, cemeteries offer a way to learn about Italian/Roman culture, they are also simply lovely peaceful places to take a walk. For the sake of time, I reccommed two cemeteries: Cimitero del Verano (Campo Verano) & Cimitero Pyramide.

Campo Verano

The Communal Monumental Cemetery of Campo Verano is one of Rome’s most important cemeteries.  You can find it located in the Tiburtino area, next to the ancient Basilica of San Lorenzo Outside the Walls (also worth a visit if you have time). The Verano cemetary has been the site of ancient burials ground for more than twenty centuries, even though the cemetery proper was established in 1807; it covers an area of approximately 83 hectares.

The monumental cemetery is divided into sections: the Jewish cemetery, the Catholic cemetery, and the monument to the victims of World War I. The Monumental Entrance opens up to the wide Quadriportico, a work by Vespignani, built in 1870 and completed in 1880, which lies at the heart of the cemetery. In the center is the Statue of the Redeemer, originally sculpted by Leopoldo Ansiglioni in 1887. All of this foregrounds the small church of Santa Maria della Misericordia which is a focal point in the architectural structure of the Quadriportico.

Where to find it: Located in the quartiere Tiburtino of Rome, the Main entrance is at Piazzale del Verano, 1

Hours: every day, 7.30 to 17.00. Access is through a combination of bus & train:

By bus: lines 71- 163 – 448 – 492 – 545 – 310
or Tiburtina station + bus lines 71 – 545 – 163; Termini station + bus lines 71 – 492 – 310

Cimitero Acattolico di Roma (Pyramide Cemetery)

Rome’s Non-Catholic Cemetery contains possibly the highest density of famous and important graves anywhere in the world. It is the final resting-place of famous non-Catholics like the poets Shelley and Keats, and includes many painters, sculptors, authors, a number of scholars, several diplomats, Goethe’s only son, and Antonio Gramsci, a founding father of European Communism, just to name only a few. Daisy Miller, the heroine of Henry James’s eponymous novella, is also buried there. After an audience with Pope Pius IX in 1877, Oscar Wilde visited the Cemetery, proclaiming it “the holiest place in Rome.”

Located in the southeast corner of Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood near the large pyramid structure, you might plan to combine a visit to this cemetery with a walk around one of Rome’s less touristy, working-class, districts, which you will find is brimming with great places to eat and hang out.

“It might make one in love with death, to think that one should be buried in so sweet a place.” – Percy Bysshe Shelley

written not long before he drowned and was buried here.

Angel del Dolore

The Angel of Grief or the Weeping Angel is an 1894 sculpture by William Wetmore Story, which he made for the grave of his wife, Emelyn Story. The full title of the work is The Angel of Grief Weeping Over the Dismantled Altar of Life. It has been said that the death of his wife so devastated Story that he lost interest in sculpture, though he was inspired to create the monument by his children, who thought it would be a appropriate way to memorialize her. The term ” weeping angel” is now used to describe multiple grave stones throughout the world, and its design continues to copied throughout the world”

Where to find it:

The cemetery is located in the Testaccio neighborhood, close to Piramide Metro stop. It’s open daily from 9:00 am to 4:30 pm and on Sundays from 9:00 am to 12:30 pm (last entrance is half an hour before closing). There is no entrance fee but visitors are invited to leave a donation. Enter through the main gate on Via Caio Cestio 6.

Roma Pass

The Roma Pass offers great deals at different price points to access discounts to attractions in the city. Good for 3 days from the first date of use, you will need to decide if you will get the benefits of it during three days. Note that making plans to visit the Vatican and Vatican museums (entry not included with the pass) will take up one day of major sight-seeing, which leaves two days to use the pass for other site visits in Rome.

Purchase of the pass, which costs 52€, gets you two free visits to the museums, discounts on other museums and archeological sites on their list, PLUS unlimited use of buses and the metro (in town). Most people use the pass to get free entry to the Colosseum and the Galleria Borghese. Entry to the Capitoline Museum may also be included in your choice of two free entries. If you want to see all three attractions, two will be free and the third will be discounted. The pass also comes with a great fold-out map of Rome, that encompasses even the outer lying areas and many archeological sites you may wish to visit.

Additionally, it includes a metro (subway) map of Rome, a map of the sites along the Appia Antica, and a map of Ostia Antica (one of the sites included in the Roma Pass.)

To compute the value, if you wanted to visit the Colosseum and the Galleria Borghese separately, your cost would be as follows: Colosseum – approx. 16 Euros; entry to the Galleria Borghese – 15 Euros. Total = 31 Euros. 

So, is it worth it to spend almost 20 Euros on bus/metro rides and discounts? Note that a one-way bus/metro ticket costs 1.50€, so you’d need to take at least 10 rides in 3 days for it to be worthwhile for that purpose. But, as I will explain here now, there are other ways to benefit from the pass.

Holders of the Roma Pass who use it for free entry to the Colosseum do not have to wait in line to get in. At the Colosseum, you will find there is a separate lane for pass holders. And that lane has either no line or a much shorter line than the ones for people who show up without a plan to buy tickets.…that’s a real bonus!!!! Same for entry to Castel Sant’Angelo – skip the line!

Other Neighborhoods

Monti

The Monti district is a large area spreading over several of the 7 hills of Rome, namely Celio, Esquilino and Viminale (hence the name ‘Monti’, which means ‘hills’ or ‘mountains’). This trendy neighborhood is not too far from where the student apartments will be located. So you might plan to pass some time visiting shops and exploring its narrow streets.

In ancient times, the seedy district was an outlaw slum and the heart of Rome’s red-light district. These days, it couldn’t be more different. Today, it is considered a dynamic and sought-after district, with its mix of traditional and hip atmosphere, it is quintessentially Roman. Even now, it is the preferred neighborhood of artists and intelligentsia. Archaeological sites like Trajan’s Markets and Nero’s Domus Aurea Palace occupy its southwestern edge. It’s northern edge is limited by the Palazzo Quirinale.

The main attraction in the area, the fountain that sits in Piazza della Madonna dei Monti is the perfect spot to indulge in a little dolce far niente (pleasant idleness). Via Urbana and surrounding streets are the hipster area of Monti. Family-run trattorias, hip wine bars, and funky vintage boutiques can be found back streets and piazzas, that draw a mix of expats, students, and locals. If you are short on time, you might want to focus on the area of Piazza della Madonna dei Monti / Piazza degli Zingari / Via Urbana.

Feeling hungry? Try Polpetta Rione, Zia Rosetta, or Mizios Street food (great sandwiches to go) for some casual street fare. Osteria della Suburra is an excellent choice if you want to dine in, as is the Hosteria La Carbonara. Ami Poke for Hawaiian poke bowls. And La Base for something a little more funky.

The history of Rome architecture has been dominated by two magnificent figures Bernini and Borromini and Monti offers a wonderful opportunity to see two of their creations, one after the other, near the Quirinale Palace.

Jewish Ghetto

The Roman Ghetto or Ghetto of Rome was a Jewish ghetto established in 1555 in the Rione Sant’Angelo, in Rome, Italy, in the area surrounded by present-day Via del Portico d’Ottavia, Lungotevere dei Cenci, Via del Progresso and Via di Santa Maria del Pianto, close to the River Tiber and the Theatre of Marcellus. You’ll find quite a bit of traditional Roman dining, both casual and more formal, located in this neighborhood (some of which was covered above, because I love the Ghetto).

Testaccio

Dynamic & edgy Testaccio is located in the southern part of the city near Monte dei Cocci, which is basically a giant mound of discarded ancient Roman amphorae (jars). Caves that were at one time dug into the mound for storage now host raucous bars and discos. The area’s trattorias range from old-school to daring and innovative. Note that many restaurants will feature offal (organs/brains) on the menus. This is recognition of the area’s slaughterhouse history. Mercato Testaccio is a vibrant market, where you can stock up on fresh produce and street food.

Last Word on Cultural Do’s and Don’ts

What to Wear?

Italians are very fashion conscious. If you plan on trying to obtain a table at a nice establishment, your chances will be greatly improved if you are dressed appropriately.

A general rule of thumb is no shorts or gym clothes. Cargo shorts as well as shorts in winter (looking at you brahs) is big negative. Dressing this way will make you stick out like an American tourist, which is not always a good thing, if only because it makes you a target for pickpockets and street hustlers. You might also get overcharged. Choose wisely.

If you plan on visiting churches, it is best for women to cover the shoulders (also men, no tank tops).

Make sure you have at least one pair of comfortable broken-in shoes. This is no joke. You will do a lot of walking on Rome’s famous cobblestone streets, which will become a source of great pain for you if you do not take care to make appropriate footwear choices. Seriously. I cannot emphasize this enough.

Dining Out

In Italy, as in many places in Europe, the tipping culture is vastly different from the U.S., where establishments and servers rely on customer tips to make up for low employee wages. It is good to leave a small tip if you think you got good service, but not the 20% that is customary in the U.S. Just a couple of euros and you are good to go.

Europeans eat later than Americans; it is customary to go to dinner later – 7:30/8:00 – where you can expect to have your table for the night. That means you must also make a reservation. This is especially true in Rome. We will discuss this more later.

How Much Cash Should I Bring?

In many ways, this is a matter of personal preference. Despite the fact that credit cards are widely accepted in Italy, you will still find it is necessary to carry some cash. The question is HOW MUCH?

Your best bet is to plan on bringing a small amount of cash with you on the plan. Later, after you arrive in Italy and arrive at the airport terminal, you can take cash as needed from a very public ATM (beware of card skimmers). Put your money away asap. Beware of scammers hanging out in the area. If you have a good credit card that doesn’t charge international transaction fees, you will do better at an ATM than at any currency exchange office.

When I arrive at the airport, I have the equivalent of €45 or $50 on my person. I sometimes arrange with my local bank at home to pick up some euros (not the best conversion price, but not such a big deal for $50). Airport kiosk currency conversions are also notoriously less than ideal.

Obviously, only you know your spending habits. In a touristic city like Rome, you can expect to pay: €2 for coffee, €1 for a bottle of water, €3 for gelato, €15-20 for a taxi, €5 for a glass of wine at happy hour. Souvenirs run from €10 to sky is the limit.

That being said, you should always plan to pay in cash for small purchases (anything that costs less than €10). Always keep a few one/two euro coins in your pocket. It’s a courtesy to do this in light of the finance surcharges that shop keepers must pay to credit card companies. Here’s a recap to keep small notes and coins on hand for things like:

• Coffee (typically €1 – €2)
• Pastry (€2 – €2.5)
• Public transportation (€1.50 per trip)
• Street food (like pizza slices and gelato – €3)
• Short taxi trips (€15 – €20…that’s Rome)
• Fresh food markets (fruit and vegetables, etc. – always pay in cash)

Note, that if you plan to go to supermarkets, you can always use a card, regardless of how small your bill is. 

Tipping

Tipping is not mandatory; however, you should always leave a small gratuity in cash when/if you want to tip. Options to add a tip to the credit card bill are not common. Plan ahead.

Tax

In Italy, the tax is built into the prices that you see advertised.  If something is marked 30 euro, then that’s what you will pay. The 22% VAT (value added tax) is already built into the price.

Coperto

There is sometimes a charge indicated on the bill called a coperto. The coperto is almost always clearly stated on the menu, and may range from 1-3 euro per person. A coperto is not a tip; it is a cover charge to offset the price of bread, oil, salt, and anything else you might be using.

In Rome and other parts of Lazio, there should not be a coperto charge.

Pane (bread)

If there is no coperto, you can still expect to pay 1 to 1.50 euro/per person for bread. (You may see this written on the bill as pane in Italian). Feel free to send the bread back if you don’t want to pay this, but almost no one does this because the bread is the BEST. Don’t look like a cheapskate.

Servizio

Servizio tends to be a bit sneaky. Again, like coperto, it should be clearly stated on the menu. Typically, it applies to groups of 8 or more. Servizio is a form of tip, so there is absolutely no need to leave anything more if you have been charged this fee.

But what if there is no Coperto or Servizio charge?

Whatever you do, do not tip the 20% that is the U.S. standard in the US. I don’t care if you are made of money, it’s not always appreciated and it may be considered bad form.

The general rule of thumb at a typical restaurant is about 1 euro per person. Alternatively, you can round up the bill. So if your bill was 45 Euro, you can round up to 50. At the end of the day, ask yourself: Was the service I received fantastic? Then tip. Was the service average but you could see your waiter tried hard. Tip. But if the service was terrible? Forget it.

Fares & Tipping for Taxis

Never. It’s simply not done. Round up your fare if you want 50 cents or 1 Euro max if that makes getting change easier.

Rome cab drivers are notorious for ripping off tourists, so be careful. If you must take one, make sure they agree on a flat fare up front. Don’t simply rely on a meter. Ask “what is the fare to go to the Villa Borghese?” Note, the drivers will often tell you the credit card machine is broken to make you pay cash. Again, plan ahead.

Morning Coffee Stop

Italians always take their morning coffee at the bar. Usually, its a straight shot of espresso with a cornetto (cream filled pastry). It is rare to sit down at a table, unless you are a tourist. The custom of standing is reflected in the prices, as coffee prices are more expensive if you sit down. If they “read” you as a tourist, they may ask you if you want served a tavola (at the table). Whatever you do, don’t pay the standing price and take your coffee to a table.

In some bars, it is common to pay first and get a paper receipt, at which point you will take that receipt to the barista, who will make your coffee. To get faster service, you might try putting a small coin on top of your receipt when you bring it to the barista.  If your coffee was €0.90, put a 10 cent coin on top.

Prices will vary in touristic areas. It is not uncommon to pay exorbitant prices near major attractions (a friend once paid €10 for a cappuccino by the Pantheon!).  

No cappuccino after 11:00 a.m.; in Italy, it’s strictly a breakfast drink. Unless, of course, you don’t mind looking like a tourist.

Water Fountains

You can drink the water from public fountains all over Italy, where the water is terrific and free! Keep an empty liter bottle in you pack for the day and fill as needed.

Public Bathrooms

Public bathrooms usually charge 1 euro (coin). Or, pay for a coffee at a bar and use their bathroom. Always plan ahead.

Drinking & Adulting

Public drunkenness and boorish behavior are frowned upon in Italy. That’s not to say that you won’t see it (the British are famous for it), but you shouldn’t do it under any circumstances. Practice moderation in all things. Don’t engage in behavior that will get you sent home on an airplane (at added expense) or behavior that puts other students at risk. It’s simply not worth it.

Sources

Ashby, Carol. “Crime and Punishment in the Roman Empire,” 2021.

How to Visit Castle Sant’Angelo, by Jean-Pierre Fabre Bruot

Boccione Forno, An American In Rome food blog

Travel & Tour Blog – Walks in Rome